Photography Tips

• The optimal location of the main object is in the horizontal and/or vertical third. Still, sometimes symmetry has a strong impact.
• The background should complement the composition. Try different angles to change the background.
• Leave space in front of the living or moving object.
• Shoot flowers and kids from their own height.
• Do not crop organs such as a finger, a hand, an ear or a leg. Consider carefully how to trim close-ups.
• Include lots of dramatic sky, rather than foreground.
• Place people in landscape photographs. I prefer to include people who wear bright colors. People add life, point of interest, human sense of scale, and color.
• Frame your object, e.g. shooting through a window, or adding a bush or a branch in the foreground.
• Avoid excessive unfocused foreground.
• The shadow and the reflection are part of the picture. Consider their angle, and try not to crop them.

• Afternoon light is warm and dramatic. During twilight the sky is deep blue. Dawn light is also soft, if you can wake up.
• Direct light is hard, whether it comes from the sun during the day, or from a flash. The direct light washes-out the colors, and the image seems flat. Reflected light is defused, soft, and yields better results. Turn the flash to the ceiling or at a rock, so the reflected light will illuminate the subject.
• Partly cloudy makes a great photograph also during the day.
• Pent light which is reflected several times inside a gorge creates impressive effects.
• Great effect is obtained when you shoot flowers against the sun; the sun rays penetrate the flower petals, and you aim down.
• When you do not have time to take a good measure, it is better to overexpose a bit than to underexpose. In post processing it is easy to darken the picture, but when brightening, you lose the deep colors.

• Focus on the eyes (same when you photograph animals).
• When the faces are dark or shaded, use the flash also in daylight. The flash should be set to minimum light, and use a diffuser.
• When shooting inside, make sure the light or its reflection is on the face of your portrait. Do not shoot when your object is with his back to a door or a window.
• Natural soft light flatters faces more than a bright sun, a flash or other artificial light source.
• Picture from the face height, in an equivalent to 70mm lens, and ask your object to lower his chin a little rather than lift it.

• Use a crook of a tree, a rock, or your knees, as a base for your camera or your hands.
• Take a big breath before shooting, hold your breath, squeeze gently the button, and wait with your breath until after taking the picture.
• Use the self timer to avoid vibration while squeezing the button.

• Set to the lowest ISO (usually ISO 50-100), as it means also low noise images.
• Set the white balance to cloudy, to increase the reds and yellows resulting in richer, warmer pictures.
• Set to the highest resolution (you can resize in post processing).
• Set to the highest image quality (you can decrease quality in post processing).
• Prepare a set for low light (sunrise and sunset twilights).
• Prepare a set for low speed, to capture a flowing movement (e.g. a flow of a river).

• A small tripod, as sometimes using a large tripod is prohibited, e.g. inside mosques, churches and caves.
• Power
• Take an extra battery.
• Use new batteries, as old batteries are emptied quickly in extreme cold conditions.
• An external instant power battery charges the camera battery for ten hours (e.g. http://www.instant-power.com/).
• A DC to AC Power Inverter using a car's cigarette lighter adapter.
• A DC to AC Power Inverter from a solar generator.
• When electricity is not available, charge your battery each time you have electricity (though it is not recommended in normal use).
• To save battery, use the viewfinder and not the LCD, do not delete pictures while trekking, turn the camera on only when required, and turn it off immediately after shooting.
• Storage capacity
• Pack extra memory cards (old cards are slow in writing time).
• Pack a digital album (e.g. Nixvue Digital Album).
• Upload photos to a web album (e.g. http://picasaweb.google.com/).
• Take a cleaning gel or wet towels to clean your hands before dealing with the camera.
• Attach a small led flashlight to the camera, to see the camera in the dark.
• Pack the camera's user's manual, to check how to use special features (it is better to learn about night framing before it is getting dark).

• The main problem is light measurement when the frame contains much bright snow and ice. Overexpose by using a spot metering from the darker parts, and check the results immediately. When photographing a close object in a bright background, consider adding a fill in flash.
• Use manual focus in snow and fog conditions, when the camera fails to focus automatically.
• Clean the lens and the display using dry, soft cloth, as breath will turn into ice.
• Pack some extra new batteries, as the batteries lose their potential quickly in extreme cold conditions (in particular non-fresh ones).
• Pack extra (at least two) memory cards, designed to perform in extreme temperatures, with fast write speed (e.g. Sandisk Extreme Compact Flash Card, high performance from -25°C to 85°C). Redundancy is the name of the game.
• Make sure the camera does not get too cold, and don't keep it exposed unnecessarily. Follow the manufacturers' instructions. Keep extra batteries close to your body.
• Put the camera inside a sealed bag when you enter a warm room. This way the bag's exterior will condensate the wetness, not the camera. If the camera becomes misty, remove the battery and memory card, leave their compartments open, and allow them to dry out.
• Use a sealed camera bag, to keep the camera dry when it rains, snows, or when you slip in the snow.
• Use Silica Gel bags to absorb wetness inside the sealed bag and the camera bag. Dry the Silica Gel bags with heat (e.g. in a microwave).
• Photography Under Arctic Conditions article by Kodak.

• Total weight of 1Kg.
• Live LCD shooting view.
• A tilt-able LCD (to shoot unusual angles, especially for flowers and small kids, and when the sun is bright).
• A large LCD with high resolution (2.7" with resolution of 230,000px).
• Spot light metering.
• The equivalent of 24mm wide zoom lens.
• Flexible spot AF.
• Image ratio 3:4.
• Macro Focus mode (using the same lens).
• Ability to display a flexible grid line, horizontal and vertical (to avoid tilted horizons, and to maintain the same horizon level in panorama photography).

• Clean your screen from stains.
• Calibrate your screen (color temperature, contrast, brightness).
• If you are using a laptop, make sure the screen is in the appropriate angle.
• Re-saving and re-sizing can degrade the quality of a JPEG image. Start processing with the cleanest image possible.
• Make a backup copy of the original image you want to process.

• Use Adjustment Layer>Levels, and white color sampler.
• Add yellow by changing the color channel from RGB to blue. Select Curves, click once in the center of the line and move it slightly down and to the right. By applying an "S" shaped curve to the blue channel, you can add yellow to the darker ground whilst simultaneously adding blue to the lighter sky thus enhancing it.

• Severe adjustment
1. Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Levels…, name the new layer and click OK.
2. In the Layers window change the interlacing of the new layer as required: when the picture is dark – change in the combo below the word Layers from Normal to Screen; when the picture is bright – change to Multiply.
• Moderate adjustments
• In Curves… try Auto. Drag the centre of the curve up or down if the result is too light or dark.
• In Levels... if the histogram does not fill the line between the black and white triangles, move them in.
• In Levels... alter the centre triangle, if the picture is too light or too dark.

• To increase contrast: select Curves, and click twice on the line to make two control points, one near the top and one near the bottom. Move the top one up slightly, and the bottom one down slightly, to make a very gentle "S" shaped curve.
• Another way to increase contrast: Filter>Sharpen>Unsharp Mask, when the Radius is higher than the Amount. You should perform this action last, even after resizing.
• To decrease contrast, such as in photos taken with a flash, use Shadow/highlight adjustment.

• High Pass filter
1. Duplicate the photograph layer: Layer>Duplicate.
2. Set a filter on the new layer: Filter>Other>High Pass.
3. In the filter window, set 1-3 pixels radius, in fraction (e.g. 2.9, 1.2). The radius is correct when the white halo is minimized, almost unseen.
4. Cancel remaining color: Image>Adjustments>Desaturate.
5. Change the interlacing of the new layer from Normal to Overlay. For softer effect use Soft Light, and for stronger effect use Hard Light
• Unsharp Mask
• Filter>Sharpen>Unsharp Mask, when the Radius is lower than the Amount.

• dpFWIW
• The Luminous Landscape

• Performing the scan
• Scanning the film is preferable to scanning mounted slides.
• Lab prices vary, according to the image-processing options chosen.
• File structure: Preferably save as a Raw file; Tiff is second best, and Bitmap is the third. JPEG is the least desirable option.
• Image processing
1. Process as required: brighten, correct the color balance and contrast.
2. Enhance color saturation: Image>Adjustments>Hue/Saturation.
3. Sharpen as last operation, after resizing.

You are invited to proceed to reading the Backpacking Tips or the Internet Experience Tips.